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Santa Ana Camper Air Conditioner Repair Near Me

Published May 26, 25
11 min read

Camper Repair And Service Santa Ana, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I didn't have the securing handles tightened up down.) I really did not see anything wrong, but pulled back both awning simply to be safe. The majority of campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out. That's when I uncovered that the rainfall gutter had actually been retreated from the wall (and downspout was missing out on) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It appears that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rain gutter) that the awning is glided into has actually pulled away from the wall surface and twisted a bit - Santa Ana Camper Air Conditioner Repair Near Me. I'm presuming the repair service will entail replacing that entire length of rain gutter (10 feet?) and most likely utilizing larger scale screws to replace those that were taken out

We have actually obtained busted braces on our camper awning. Two months earlier, we had a bad tire blow-out that created a curved axle, significant repair work, etc, and we question if the brackets cracked/broke throughout the bouncy trip prior to we realized the axle was in difficulty. We have not had the awning out given that it remained in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring system, etc, is great. The back brace assembly is great, but the front one is broken at the base and totally appeared at the top, to make sure that the top assistance arm no longer fastens to the camper. We are in difficulty. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Also the actual assistance arms are undamaged. They are white steel (? The actual arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm simply wanting to make certain we're not being taken in out of our anxiety (Santa Ana Camper Air Conditioner Repair Near Me).

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one piece is damaged it needs to be completely replaced? The recreational vehicle is a 2007, however we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the whole awning was brand brand-new back then. If nothing else, we would such as recommendations as to how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - possibly also get us through the summertime - without needing to place in a brand-new awning! We're in a very significant bind because we have actually a journey intended in mid June that is not optional and can not be changed or held off.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, however I prefer to find a quick and effective service. Any individual? Please!.

Invite to my Motor Home Restoration Series!.?.!! I'm on step 5 of changing the roof covering of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I removed the roofing system trim molding from 3 sides of the roofing. In order to get rid of the 4th one, I require to eliminate the Recreational vehicle awning.

In order to change the rubber roof covering and roofing system decking, I need to eliminate the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be gotten rid of to set on the ground.

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You'll additionally observe exactly how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires to find off initially before the last actions of this post (subjecting the front and back sides of the roof covering decking).

Below's an information of exactly how the awning installing brackets are screwed into the camper. I didn't in fact need to do this action till the awning got on the ground however I observed this established screw right here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's another at the ideal end of the awning.) I proceeded and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, just draw back on the brace. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning installing braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Eliminating the mounting brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Keep in mind just how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the rounded edge at the rear of the roof covering.

Both lag screws removed from the awning placing brace on the. Eliminating the mounting brace of the awning.

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To replace the roofing, this awning bar needs to be gotten rid of. Here's an appearance at the round network at the base of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides into this track. Directs! If you're just changing your awning and not repairing the entire roof covering like me, after that you wouldn't require to remove the awning rail.

Going down the legs a few notches to lower the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently.

You might have to cut the end with an energy knife if it is covered under. Just yank it out!

As soon as the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. (There will certainly be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber below.) DIRECTS! Once I started to pry off the awning rail, the whole point instantly broke off and rolled up into the awning like a home window blind.

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When the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be pried up. When you begin drawing the awning rail away it will all of a sudden break cost-free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me then reduce it the ground gradually by walking the legs away from the camper on each side individually up until you can lay it on the ground. Then I flipped the legs back up and off the beaten track against the camper.

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Then I leaned the legs back versus the camper. Once the awning got on the ground I eliminated the little set screw at the best end of the awning, (I removed the one at the left end earlier.) These screws maintain the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail just glides right off the canvas by gliding the entire rail away.

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Once the 2 set screws were removed I can slide the entire awning rail right off the awning. One more appearance at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step before I can eliminate the old roof outdoor decking is to reveal completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

The next thing holding down the motor home fiberglass home siding panels is the corner trim molding revealed here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip placed, so once again I just tore up the plastic insert and drew out sufficient so I can loosen some screw heads.

I may finish up eliminating it later if I need to change the luan plywood underneath this fiberglass transition. To raise that, the edge molding have to be eliminated.

Then I could turn the trim mold off the side sufficient to raise the edge of the fiberglass panel. When I can turn that piece of corner molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in location.

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At that point I switched from a scraper to 6 inch broad taping knife. I loosened the various other edge trim in the exact same method, and curved it sidewards just enough so that I could raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I found a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. I had a significant quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

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It's just standing out via the staples. Lastly the edge of the roof covering outdoor decking is exposed at the rear of the camper! OK! I have actually subjected the roof substrate at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front edge. Very same bargain once more. Get rid of some screws from the corner trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I pried that layer up also (there had not been much holding it down yet adhesive at this point) and afterwards I could tug out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued beneath it. Currently I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no fasteners holding the roofing system plywood down. It was just glued. I began meticulously peeling it up. I might see heaven styrofoam insulation below the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no fasteners whatsoever holding down the roof covering plywood! It is totally glued.

As soon as I scratched up some of the busted bits I obtained hold of a strong item of plywood and started to pull. The whole point began to pull up cleanly in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal reinforced tape under that signs up with the pieces with each other. I don't know just how specifically they took care of to glue every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was nicely done. The items of roofing system ply are joined together at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I promptly understood the roof was shedding toughness and tightness as I brought up the leading layer, so fractured it off just prior to the initial seam. A close of the metal framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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I found a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. Which indicates I'll end removing those edge trim items all the method down. We'll obtain to that later on. I had a significant amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

The side of the roofing system outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I've subjected the roof substrate at the back side of the camper. Now its time to discover the front edge.

Once again, I pried that layer up as well (there had not been much stifling however glue at this moment) and afterwards I can tug out the rest of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Santa Ana Camper Air Conditioner Repair Near Me. Now I can draw out the last little rubber roof from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation under the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof covering plywood!

When I scraped up some of the damaged little bits I acquired a solid piece of plywood and began to pull. The entire point began to draw up easily unscathed without harming the foam board insulation in any way. Now I can see the steel framing under. However then the plywood started peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a metal reinforced tape on the bottom that signs up with the assemble. I do not understand how specifically they managed to adhesive everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was nicely done. The items of roofing system ply are joined together at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I promptly understood the roof was shedding stamina and tightness as I pulled up the leading layer, so broke it off just before the initial joint. A close of the steel framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Right here's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roofing system.

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